April 2009 Journal #6    Page 1


How many distinct ways can you celebrate Easter in San Cristóbal, Chiapas? Based on the experience of Sam Morgan '11, Bethany Pratt '10, Rosie McAuley '10, and I, at least three. Easter Sunday fell during our spring break trip through Chiapas and Oaxaca and was definitely a day to remember.

 

We witnessed the different traditions both in San Cristóbal, as well as neighboring indigenous villages of San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán. San Juan Chamula, a city of nearly 10,000 Maya residents, was home to a very divergent brand of Christianity, immediately obvious from the pine-needle strewn and incense-filled church in which we observed a traditional healer using eggs and candles. In the square outside, we witnessed a dramatic procession of spectacular colorfully-dressed saint statues, led by Christ on the cross and accented by waving flags, tossed rose petals, and exploding firecrackers. Although awe-inspiring, the ceremony definitely contrasted greatly with the evening mass that we attended in San Cristóbal's beautifully ornate Cathedral that night, also a unique experience since it was presided over by the bishop.

The most remarkable, albeit unexpected, experience of the day took place in the Maya village Zinacantán. Much smaller and more tranquil, arriving here after the excitement of Chamula was like stepping into another world; even the church was overflowing with flowers rather than incense. While coming out of the church, we stumbled upon a ceremony of sorts, as colorfully attired men paraded around


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