July 11, 2009    Page 2

Trees are also an elaborate metaphor for Arabic civilization. For millennia, Arabic history has been marked by the ebb and flow of conquerors, the injection of foreigners (whether they be Greeks, Bedouins from the southern desert, Turks, or even Slavs), and more recently, the Arabic expulsion from Palestine. Before the advent of fossil fuels, the only valuable resource in this part of the world was water and arable land, often symbolized by the presence of trees. Trees represent stability—a characteristic the Arab World lacks. Perhaps the presence of a tree whose roots plant it solidly in one location and whose seasonal cycle is largely predictable acts as a subconscious source of comfort. I know they are for me as a reminder of home.

After half an hour or so, we arrived in Jarash before noon to a largely empty site. This trip had been a quickly planned excursion and my friends and I failed to take into account the heat. It was easily over a hundred degrees, which for the most part, kept tourists away. Except us.

Once we weaved through the "souq" of tourist merchandise at the entrance, we soon entered ancient Jarash through the Hadrian Arch. The gate amazed me, but what stood behind it, astounded me. I have never been to Rome or Greece, but at that moment of crossing, I felt like I was in Rome. I could not believe my eyes: entire streets paved with giant blocks, lined with Corinthian and Ionic columns of impressive details.
Amidst this colonnaded forest, endless pieces of

columns and capitals covered the floor, like an unfinished jigsaw puzzle.

Amazed as I stood, completely encircled by the remains of a great Roman city, I couldn't help remark aloud, "I feel like I am in Rome." One of my companions added to my amazement saying, "Yes, and think how far Rome is from here." He was right. Rome is far from here and even farther back then. Nearly two millennia ago, Jarash (or Gerasa, to the Romans) was on the edge of the map, connected to the rest of the world by a trade route extending to the far east—a mere thread of travelers sewing the various civilizations together. Jarash was perhaps their last stop until reaching the Roman Lake or population centers like Damascus.