January 10, 2006

Today we left Hanoi and flew to Danang, one Vietnam's most important port cities and home of an important airfield for the U.S. during the war. While I enjoyed our activities in Hanoi, I can't say that I had a good overall impression of the city. While this judgment is almost certainly colored by being jet-lagged and sick, I think I had trouble coming to terms with the visible poverty. It amazed me that next door to a 4- or 5-star hotel you could see a shack in which people lived and out of which they sold $2 t-shirts. I had never witnessed such poverty and it was difficult to see. I felt guilty staying in such a nice hotel when just across the street people were sleeping on the ground. I also felt guilty shopping in the Old Quarter because I felt like I was subordinating the people. Yet, income from tourists is how many Vietnamese earn a living. I'm still very conflicted about this.

Upon arriving in Danang, we made a quick stop at China Beach, which is where many US soldiers took their in-country R&Rs during their tours of duty. We then went to the Marble Mountains, which are important worship sites for the Vietnamese. We all climbed the steps to the top (which I was particularly proud of myself for doing, considering I was still not feeling well). At the top were beautiful temples and panoramic views of the mountains and the South China Sea.

However, what awaited us at the bottom of the mountain was an adventure in itself. As we stepped off the last step of the mountain, we were swarmed by vendors. Judging by the scene, you would have thought we were Ho Chi Minh incarnate. I was literally grabbed by both arms by two women and pulled into a shop. I made some purchases but was then dragged to the other woman's shop, where I felt forced to buy more since I had bought from the other lady. We later figured out that it was all one extended family that owned all of the shops at the bottom of the mountain. This was my first