December 6, 2004

As a music major at Centre, one of the main things that inspired me to study in Ireland in the first place was the music. I was really excited to see authentic Irish music in the pubs, and I was hoping to meet a lot of people through the music scene. Irish traditional music has a certain appeal and vitality that makes it popular in America and all over the world. There are lots of different varieties, from Celtic to popular fusion bands, but there is no question that music is one of the ways the Irish define their own culture. It seems like a lot of the students who are musicians also like to incorporate the Irish style when they get together to play.

I was lucky to end up in Belfast, because I’ve learned it’s one of the best towns for ‘sessions,’ which are informal gatherings in pubs and other venues. Ciaran Carson, an Irish poet and music enthusiast who also teaches English here at Queens, told me that Belfast is sort of a haven for a lot of the “old-timers” who enjoy playing traditional music. Like much of Irish culture, the task of finding good music is riddled with contradiction. The best sessions are the secret ones, so you can’t find them unless you’ve got insider’s knowledge. And once they become too popular, they move elsewhere.

The whole system is predicated on a kind of secrecy and mystique. Ciaran was helpful in directing me to some good Belfast sessions, but I’m still hoping to stumble upon a gold mine in these last few weeks.

One place he suggested is a little, out-of-the-way place
called Maddens Bar in Smithfield, a short cab ride from Belfast. It’s a bit cramped inside, but the acoustics are
great. I’ve been a couple of times, and it has been quite
an experience.